Just before Christmas, I jetted off to Croatia for the first time to explore the Zagorje region, including capital city Zagreb for The Sun's Travel column.
FEELING festive? The Zagore region offers up a winter wonderland that's a far cry from the sun, sea and sand of Croatia's famous summer resorts.
At this time of year, the country's capital Zagreb is packed with Christmas markets, ice rinks and stalls selling enough local goodies to keep you stuffed until the New Year.
Learn to make trukli, the national dish of Croatia, in a cookery workshop or decorate a honey licitar, a heart-shaped cookie dating from the 1500s, to adorn your Christmas tree. WHY SHOULD I GO? Blending Austrian and Italian architecture, Zagreb and its surrounding cities and towns are a social media snapper's dream land in winter.
The Zagreb Advent festival runs until early January, with rows and rows of market stalls stretching from its newer lower town to the Gornji Grad, up the hill. There is also an ice rink in King Tomislav Square, which was originally laid out for a
Q& royal visit, as well as decorated trees and bright lights lining the streets.
The Plitvice Lakes National Park, which is surrounded by 65 hectares of hiking parkland, is also a wonder to behold in the winter when covered in a dusting of snow and ice. ARE THESE STREETS MADE FOR WALKING? All the key sights are within walking distance, though trams run round the city.
Braver souls can take the steep stairs up to the historic upper town, but there is also a funicular railway the second shortest in the world after Bournemouth's which can be accessed through the day.
To go further afield, to vineyards, the eight national parks or the seaside cities of Split or Dubrovnik, it's best to rent a car or use the buses which run regularly.
ANY UNIQUE ATTRACTIONS? Zagreb boasts the only Museum Of Broken Relationships, featuring stories submitted by real people.
The tiny space, in a historic house under the watchtower overlooking the city, tells of failed marriages and horror exes, with both laughs and cries along the way.
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WHERE SHOULD I EAT? The Christmas market has plenty of local delights, including mini donuts known as fritule, served dripping in chocolate or with powdered sugar.
The region is famous for its turkeys, which were exported to British royalty throughout the 19th century.
For a slap-up festive roast, go to traditional restaurant Vinodol, in the heart of downtown Zagreb.
For brekkie, try Bread Club, which does terrific pastries, including an untraditional but very delicious muffin and croissant crossover, stuffed with pistachio or chocolate cream.
Michelin-recommended restaurant Zinfandel is modern fine dining with a local twist, with dishes such as gnudi (a gnocchi-like dumpling) with sea urchin.
I FANCY A DRINK: Stalls selling mulled wine or cream-topped hot chocolate are everywhere during the Advent season. The Finjak bar offers the ultimate festive experience with its Christmas-themed café, while Mr Fogg serves exotic gins and local craft beers in trendy themed glasses.
If you're into wine, try vineyards Kezele Farm, an hour's drive east of Zagreb, which will let you sample its tipples, or Vulgec Breg vineyard, with its on-site hotel.
WHERE SHOULD I STAY? The luxurious Canopy by Hilton hotel has an East London vibe, while still making room for Croatian tradition.
It is just outside a tram stop that runs directly to the city centre and is near King Tomislav Square.
JESS LESTER
GO: ZAGREB
GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies direct from Stansted to Zagreb from £19 each way, departing this month. See ryanair.com.
STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Canopy by Hilton Zagreb start from £128 (€147) per night, based on two adults sharing.
See hilton.com. MORE INFO: See adventzagreb.hr and croatia.hr/en-gb
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